Everywhere you look, La Miche is touted as the best French restaurant in Bethesda. Neither brasserie nor bistro, it has more culinary heft, and it truly is hard to find something to complain about there. Except maybe the decor, which is arguably 'French country' but felt more to me like a fine dining restaurant before there was any subtlety to fine dining. The banquettes are overstuffed to make even the largest of diners feel slight and possibly coquettish, and the baskets hanging form the ceiling feel lazy and arbitrary, and the colors remind me of the Ukranian National Home restaurant on 2nd Avenue in New York. But once you're sitting down it's cozier than you'd think, and you never have to wave a waitor down and the food, well... it's probably the best French in Bethesda.
When M- made the reservation he told them we were coming for my birthday, and they gave us a great corner table at the end of the banquette. We sank deeper into the pillow with every course. The menu is a prix fixe hybrid with three course for $35 and premiums charged for certain dishes. It's primarily rich and sauce-y country cooking, but with a remarkably fresh and delicate touch. I think I remember reading that they try to limit each dish to six ingredients. I also read that their Sautéed Dover Sole is authentic Dover sole flown in daily, but M- and I opted for the relatively pedestrian Le Fletan de Mer au Crab et Capres (Sautéed Alaskan Halibut over ratatouille with artichokes crab and caper lemon butter sauce) and Le Tournedos de Porc Grille a' la Moutarde (Grilled Pork Loin with mashed potatoes and mustard sauce), though nothing feels pedestrian with names like that. We also pre-ordered one of their soufflés to have for dessert. Everything was flavorful and cooked to perfection.
Jason and Adam Tepper bought la Miche in 2002 from its originial owner, two years before its 25th anniversary. It must have been exciting to walk into a French restaurant in downtown Bethesda in the '80's, and it still is. The food is fantastic and the service makes the experience exceptional. The staff is attentive and warm, and you can get through an entire meal without ever looking around the room becuase you need something. I can see why it's considered one of the more romantic restaurants in the area, and a great place for special occasions. They leave plenty of room for each course and refill your wine glasse before it's empty and let you worry about enjoying just your evening.
With our soufflé, they brought a profiterole with a birthday candle, and two complimentary Kir Royales. I wish they'd left the ice cream soften up a little, but they more than made up for that by not singing.
La Miche, 7905 Norfolk Avenue, Bethesda, 301-986-0707, Open for Sunday brunch
washingtonpost.com on La Miche, Washingtonian Online on la Miche, Bistro Asiatique, Jason Tepper Executive Chef
