Not to split hairs, but Brasserie Monte Carlo isn't really a brasserie, at least not in the traditional sense of the word. For one thing, they close way too early.
For another, no pommes frites. It's more of a bistro, if anything. But who cares, right? The restaurant is charming; crisp white tablecloths, good wine, good coffee, rich food, friendly service, a big Biarritz looking mural covering one wall, and windows showing off the intersection of Cordell and Norfolk and making the neighborhood look almost charming.
They have brunch, lunch and dinner menus that each make it a little hard to choose your meal, and even harder to resist at least two courses. Our waitress steered us to toward the specials but, fresh as they may be, I see no reason not to opt for the Free range chicken with cabbage confit and lardons in mustard sauce, or the Grilled Atlantic salmon in a tarragon fish reduction with mussels, or the Seared Angus filet mignon in a Cognac green peppercorn sauce, all on the regular menu. But we didn't. We went for the specials. Filet mignon with truffle oil sauce and figs and Skate in kind of a stew. The filet wasn't super tender, but the truffles and figs were an amazing combination. And I'm not so fond of skate, but the stew was also a good blend of savory with savory. The food isn't delicate, or subtle; it's more rich and warm, but it's not heavy either. We also got the special Mediterranean salad with almonds, feta and olives, and—the show stopper—the Baked Onion tart with cured ham and sage with petite salad, better than any onion tart I can recall.
Everything was great, but mostly it was the warm and attentive service that made the meal. Likewise when I went for lunch during Restaurant Week. It just feels good in there. At night, the overhead lights are a bit of a bummer, and they could use some candles. But during the day, it's warm and airy, with natural light pouring in and making you feel like you've got all the time in the world before you have to get back to l'hôtel and change into your bathing suit.
Brasserie Monte Carlo, 7929 Norfolk Avenue, Bethesda, 301.656.9225
Washington City Paper on Brasserie Monte Carlo; Washingtonian Online on Brasserie Monte Carlo; Lutèce's onion tart recipe (no cheese)



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