I took advantage of Restaurant Week to drag M- and B- out for a nice dinner at Grapeseed. I've been meaning to try it, and determined to like it, since I got here. Not so much because I know a lot about wine and need a well-vetted list and people to talk about it with, but more because I like the vibe of a knowledgeable but unpretentious wine bar.
We made a reservation for 8:30, had cocktails at home, and walked over. (We don't have the most scenic stroll from our house to Cordell, but it's the right distance and a nice way to get fresh air before and after dinner.) The restaurant was still near full, though not crowded, and we were seated promptly near the front window. We were brought water right away, and then some delightfully fresh tasting tomato olive oil dip and a basket full of bread, or rather, bread ends. I suppose that's what happens when you come to a restaurant at the end of the first day of Restaurant Week. But then again, maybe they could buy more bread.
Feeling irrepressibly festive, by virtue of the decent weather and being out of the house, I thought I'd start with a glass of prosecco, but when the waiter asks you what prosecco is, you can safely assume the restaurant doesn't carry it, and Grapeseed doesn't. I may like my wine bar unpretentious, but I do expect them to know about the most popular sparkling wine in Italy. But the pinot noir we got was better than okay, so no harm done.
The menu at Grapeseed is very something-for-everyone, with a little Italian, French, Spanish, American South (read: comfort food), and what looks like a lot of green market ingredients. They chose to offer the option of an appetizer, entree and dessert OR two appetizers and an entree—a nice gesture for those of us who don't particularly care for dessert, and aren't looking for an excuse to "indulge."
Our first round included Cornmeal Fried Oysters with Bacon Beurre Blanc, with large yet remarkably tender oysters and a perfect blend of flavors, Stuffed Piquillo Pepper with Goat Cheese, Roast Tomato Vinaigrette, substantial and satisfying, and Lobster Potstickers, with just enough lobster to taste like lobster. Round two was my own Grilled Romaine Salad, nicely dressed and a good palate-clearing course.
Our three entrees were Grilled Salmon, Braised Pork Shank and Pan Roasted Filet Mignon, all of it up to snuff, none of it mind-blowing. M- and B- went for the Apple Crisp and Bread Pudding for dessert and again, they were neither disappointing nor exceptional. All of which is to say that Grapeseed may be better for light dinner and a couple of glasses of wine than it is for a 3 or 4 course meal. (Although I would like to try a meal with their recommended pairings. That's always a blast.)
Lastly, while they have a few moderately priced wines by the glass, their bottles are a little top-heavy, with only a handful under $35. Personally, I like when a restaurant utilizes their expertise to introduce you to some flavor bargains, and not just to move premium vintages.
They made the Washingtonian's '100 Very Best', so try it once, or take your parents, or indulge in some high-end wines, but I'm going to David Craig when I want to splurge.
Grapeseed, 4865 Cordell Avenue, Bethesda, 301.986.9592
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