David Craig Bethesda

David Craig has been kickin’ around the DC area for the past ten years, at Pesce, the Tabard Inn and, more recently and locally, at Black’s Bar and Kitchen. I wasn’t here in time to catch him in any of those kitchens, but I’m glad I’m here now. David Craig Bethesda is his own venture with partner John Fielding, and aside from the inherently homely space, it couldn’t be better.

Awkward floor plan and office ceiling tiles aside, the place is minimally and warmly decorated. They achieve a pretty sophisticated feel in there, and the two-tops are ample, decently spaced and well-adorned, and there’s a cozy upholstered bench lining the exterior wall in the back room, allowing you to relax into your meal just a little more.

We went late Tuesday of Restaurant Week, and had an extraordinary meal. I started with Steamed Mussels. Garlic. Shallots. White Wine. Butter. Parsley., and got a bowl of about twenty, small and tender and heaped with garlic and shallots, and soaking in a delectable, dippable broth. Mussels are a scary dish sometimes, waiting for the fishy, gristly ones to show up, but these were fresh and yummy. M- got the Mesclun-Local Lettuces. Aged Balsamic Vinegar. Extra Virgin Olive Oil. Black Pepper. Sea Salt., modestly dressed aside from that heavy pepper that, like M- said, was more an ingredient than a seasoning.

For our entrees, M- got the already acclaimed Chicken Two Ways and I got the most remarkable, delectable Seared Salmon on the planet. It was served over a scrumptious, savory, creamy sauce filled with the teeniest buttery tender potato cubes and still-crispy one-inch pieces of haricots vert and also-teeny salty cubes of prosciutto. David Craig Bethesda’s homepage claims that “his cooking creates a harmony among the main ingredients, its sauce and its garnish,” and harmonious it was. I get wistful thinking about it.

Normally I wouldn’t try to finish that meal with anything but another sip of wine—the sauvignon blanc and the tempranillo by the glass were both awesome—but our Restaurant Week trios came with desserts, so we shared the Seasonal Fruit Sorbet (raspberry) and the Vanilla Crème Brulee, both extraordinary, but especially the Crème Brulee.

I didn’t find the service particularly friendly, but they were attentive and pleasant. The staff feels tight-knit and harmonious, like the food, and that gives the restaurant the elusive warmth of a group endeavor.

David Craig, 4924 St. Elmo Avenue, Bethesda, 301.657.2484

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